Barcelona
Friday/Saturday, 8/9th August 2008
We boarded the boat at midday and watched the islands recede into the distance. It was a bit choppy out at sea but the boat is reasonably stable so no-one seemed to be seasick. We spent a big part of the voyage in the lounge watching the Opening ceremony of the Beijing Olympics. It was a really magic show - totally spectacular as expected. In the late afternoon we could see land again and barcelona began to grow larger as we approached. It seems to be a fairly busy port but nothing like Sydney Harbour.
As we pulled in to the docking area we passed some interesting looking buildings.
As with so much of Europe, the old and the new combine architecturally. We could see old fortifications on the hillside. The trucks were lining up to go on board for the next journey. Obviously everything has to be carried in to the island.
We took a taxi to the hotel which was in the Placa Real, a central square where everything is happening. Many young people meet at this fountain and over the weekend they party all night here. A police car was present a lot of the time so there must be some real action taking place here. Our hotel was very basic - like a backpacker's place. There was no air conditioning and the room was small.
After checking in and taking our things upstairs, we headed back down into the town and walked up the central pedestrian zone called La Rambla, looking at the stalls selling everything but especially all the same things we had seen at Calpe - handbags, jewellery and souvenirs. It was really crowded with tourists. We returned to Placa Real hoping to get a meal but the kitchen was closed so we had to settle for a Sangria. It became kitty's favourite drink.
The next morning I got up early, had breakfast alone in the dining room in the basement and went for a walk along La Rambla which was now pretty quiet. I bought a map of the city and a sightseeing book. Took a photo of this great conquistador. There were many many buskers with an incredible variety of costumes. It was fascinating.
The buildings along La Rambla are an interesting mix of architectural styles all with a Spanish touch. Every now and then you would come across a square with some statuary. It's a great place for meeting spots or simply sitting down and watching the world pass by.
As in Calpe and Palma the side streets were pretty narrow. Cars were allowed to enter these streets but we didn't see too many of them. They were real shared spaces.
These lamps were a nice touch in this tourist drag. I stopped to take a picture of this dramatic portal of a church tucked in between commercial buildings.
The street led to a grand square (Plaza de la Constitucion) with administrative buildings constructed in a classical style. Buildings like these can be seen in almost every major European city. The unique aspect was the sculpture and relief panels which featured Spanish heroes.
Nearby a modern building blended in by using a similar colour in the building materials and an archway. This building had a very modern relief on the strip above the glass windows.
I then headed back to the hotel and collected Kitty. We walked down to the Columbus monument which was visible from the ship as we came in. We walked around it and took photos of the statues. Kitty needed a new card for her camera so with a bit of help from various shop assistants we found the right place (upstairs) and she was able to buy her card.
After that we took the subway to the Sagrida Familia - Gaudi's famous cathedral which is a work in progress. Gaudi's inspiration was from nature and he tried to create a very organic piece of architecture. He examined the geometry of the plant, animal and mineral kingdoms to create his masterpiece. Exterior views of the towers show the organic sculpting in the detail.
After Gaudi died the cathedral construction continued under a new master. The angular and modernistic religious sculptures belong to the newer period. I just loved them.
We paid for audio guides in English to explain the elements of the cathedral as we went around. The place was absolutely packed with tourists. Entry fees go to pay for the construction so that the building is fully self-funded. It is a such an icon of Spanish architecture that it attracts millions of tourists each year, especially in the summer.
Gaudi used this yellow flower as an inspiration. The site was covered with them before building commenced. The geometry of this fan leaf was used in the cathedral. Gaudi was particularly interested in the spiral in nature and the cosmos and this is reflected in the architectural details.
Gaudi experimented with many forms, changing them, playing with them until he reached his desired design.
The detail in these facades show Gaudi's obsession with nature. It is crowded in a richness of sculpting which is unique. Other European cathedrals focus on figures but tend to have much simpler backgrounds.
After visiting the cathedral, we stopped at a nearby cafe for a paella lunch. Kitty went back to the hotel for a siesta while I headed off to the Museum of Contemporary Art and the University precinct. The installations featured a lot of paper, ink, print, paint. Most had some kind of strong message about immigration, human rights, torture, etc. Unfortunately they are always speaking to the converted. The far right wing fascists in our society don't go to art galleries. Their recreation tends to involve some kind of destruction.
It was good to see these recycling bins out on the street. Back on La Rambla I spied a stall selling live animals.
I turned the corner near Placa Real to investigate the Old City. It reminded me a lot of Valencia - narrow lanes, lots of archways, churches everywhere, courtyards and occasional higher quality buskers, playing religious music.
Back on La Rambla I spotted a stand with hire bikes. I asked someone who had just parked a bike how it works. He said you had to register and pay an annual fee and then you could have the use of these hire bikes whenever you wanted - similar to the French scheme. As I walked through the Placa Real someone handed me a flyer to a Flamenco performance that evening for 4 Euros. This seemed like a real bargain. I asked Kitty back at the hotel if she wanted to come - she didn't so I went on my own again. The performance was fantastic. I would have loved to buy the DVD but I have to limit my luggage. I had already bought a CD of authentic Spanish country music so my photos will have to suffice. Kitty missed a real treat. She did come out later for a meal and more Sangria. We also took the metro to the main railway station to enquire about trains to Avignon and buy tickets. On the way back a pickpocket took my purse out of my handbag, despite the fact that it was a cross shoulder bag which sat on my front.. It was a very clever robbery involving a group of young men , a crowded metro and the classic diversion trick. I didn't notice a thing till after we got off the metro. Fortunately it only had a bit of money in it - I still hadn't been to an ATM. I also carry my passport and cards in a security bag hanging from around my neck. So the damage was small but it reminded me to be more careful. After that I limited the amount I carried in the purse at any time and kept the rest in a safer place.
