Valencia
Wednesday, 6th August 2008
We left Calpe at 8,30 am. The bus trip to Valencia was slow but interesting. The countryside alternated between poor villages surrounded by olive and almond trees and grapevines planted anywhere. Rich homes and plantations of oranges which stretched for miles were also a feature of the countryside as we neared Valencia. The bus lurched through narrow streets where you could reach out and tug on the exposed electrical wires - a feature of Spain. We could see Valencia in the distance and like all large cities it was surrounded by industrial complexes which we drove through to get to the city centre..
Valencia
The province of Valencia is situated in the centre of the Spanish Mediterranean coastline. It overlooks the spacious Gulf of Valencia and is skirted at the back by a group of medium-high mountains and rolling plains leading to the lands of Aragon and Castile-La Mancha. It is opposite the Balearic islands and equidistant from the country's two major decision-taking centres: Madrid and Barcelona. Valencia is identified with the Mediterranean Sea. Long before the arrival of the Romans in Spain, the territory of what is now Valencia was inhabited by Iberian peoples. This early stratum was successively overlaid with Greeks, Romans, Visigoths and Muslims. Whatever the pre-Roman ethnic roots of eastern Spain may have been, the fact is that it was intensely Romanized. However, even greater was the subsequent Muslim influence, to the extent that except for a shortlived conquest by the Cid in 1088, the population of this part of the Peninsula was fundamentally Muslim. IN 1238, King James I conquered the city of Valencia, making it into an autonomous kingdom within the group of States under his sceptre. After the Middle Ages, economic growth was subject to sudden halts, such as the war of the 'Germanias' (1519-1522) and the expulsion of the 'Moriscos' in 1616, which marked the beginning of its decline. At the beginning of the 18th century, in the War of Succession, the Valencian people took the side of the Archduke of Austria while most of the nobility were in favour of Philip V who won and ended the region's traditional autonomy. (www.aboutvalencia.com/valencia.com)
The bus took us to the main bus station which is beside a major highway and on the edge of the city centre. We put our luggage into lockers (4 Euros for the day) then walked into the Old Town. We found it a bit disorienting even with a map. Many older European towns had walls and streets which went in circles. You think you are heading in the right direction and then find yourself at right angles to the street you want to be on. Spain is a predominantly Roman Catholic country with a rich religious history. The Old Town is full of churches and medieval buildings mixed with classical structures. It is always a good idea to start with the middle so we visited the Basilica first. Inside we were able to take an audio-guided tour. It was an amazing experience - so rich in sculptures, paintings and gold everywhere. They even had the Holy Grail (chalice used by Christ for the last Supper) featured on a glassed altar. I wonder how many churches claim the Holy Grail to be theirs. Afterwards we searched for the Ceramics Museum, which used to be the palace of the Marquis. There were some truly wonderful classical rooms (similar to what you would see in Vienna and Paris).
Plaza de la Virgin used to be the main square of Valencia, right from the Roman origins to the day when Plaza de Ayuntamento came into full swing at the turn of the XX century. It is still a very active place, with most of the city traditional events passing through here. The Plaza breathes with history, hosting three buildings of huge importance to Valencians. Basilica de Virgen de Los Desamparados is constructed in a traditional Spanish stye with a blue tiled dome. Palau de Generalitat is the seat of the Valencian Autonomous Region government, an imposing castle-like structure blending the late Gothic and Renaissance architecture with Moorish themes. The rear turret, the Gothic portal of the Apostles and the colliseum-style colonnade harmonically blend with the Basilica which was built on the site of the main mosque, right after the Re-conquista. The very impressive octagonal bell-tower El Micalet is the landmark of Valencia. www.valenciavalencia.com/sights-guide/sights-listings/cathedral.htm
Original sculptures on the Gothic doorway of Los Apóstoles (14th century).
Palau de Generalitat
The Basilica also has a Museum full of important paintings and sculptures.
There are some wonderful altars.
There is also a mummified hand of San Vicente Martyr (patron saint of the Valencian Community).
Ceramics Museum - Palacio Del Marques De Dos Aguas
From the 4th century onwards, after the disintegration of the Roman Empire, there was a gradual decline in the quality of the pottery made in the Iberian Peninsula. Recovery began with the arrival of the Muslims, who established a style of popular ceramics. Glazed tiles, imposts or elements of arcades and vaults were the main ceramic contribution of the Islamic people. The Christian pottery of the 13th and 14th centuries owes much to the production of the Muslim workshops which continued to operate after the reconquest, especially in the Valencian Region. The richest type of pottery are the purple and green wares and the wares decorated in blue and lustre. The 15th century was the golden age of Valencian pottery because of the importance of lustre ware. It was used by kings and the aristocracy in many European countries.(Museum notes)
The museum is located in a gorgeous palace. The amazing entrance is one of Valencia's landmarks. You can enjoy the luxurious splendour of the rooms, some of which are kept in the original Gothic style of XV century, and others bring you back into the age of salons, orientalism and ballroom dancing. There is even a carriage entrance complete with a few carriages. All rooms, in addition to luxurious interior, hold fine examples of ceramics. There is even a fully equiped typical Valencian kitchen made 100% of ceramics from top to bottom, and a porcelain room where most things are of coloured porcelain artwork. The top floor has a large collection of ceramics from prehistoric times to Islamic samples and exquisite modern works.
We walked back to the bus station, got our luggage and took a cab to the harbour, where we had a bite to eat and a beer. We boarded the ferry to Majorca at about 10.00 pm and set sail at 11.00. We had a 2 berth cabin, which had its own shower and toilet. Unfortunately the shower didn't drain very well.